7.3l Powerstroke Turbo Rebuild

by aj 16. July 2010 17:59

 Hey there everybody. This is sort of a continuation on the previous blog "7.3l Powerstroke Engine Replacement". After installing the engine we noticed that it was blowing smoke and after inspection we found the turbo seals were leaking oil. This called for a rebuild and I figured this would make a good blog for all you DIYers. It was a pretty simple rebuild as long as you remember one key word, CLEANLINESS. One piece of grit in the turbo bearings could spell a disaster. You must make sure all parts are spotless and you must follow all torque specs to ensure you don't screw something up. With that being said let's get started.

Step 1: Remove the turbo. Not going to go over this with pics. It's pretty simple. Remove intercooler hoses. Remove clamps that hold turbo to exhaust and y-pipe. Remove clip for EBV and remove turbo.

Step 2: Remove EBV housing from turbo. Make sure to soak the bolts in PB Blaster before trying to remove them. There are 7 8mm 12-pt bolts. This is a good chance to clean the housing where the EBV moves to ensure it doesn't stick on the carbon buildup OR delete the valve altogether.

 

Step 3: Remove the compressor housing from the center. First you will have to remove the e-clip that holds the wastegate arm onto the wastegate. Use a pick to pry it off just make sure it doesn't fly off and get lost. There are 5 8mm 12-pt bolts that holds the compressor housing on.

Step 4: Remove the compressor wheel. The easiest way to do this is to take a 3/8 drive impact and hit the wheel a couple times. This will loosen the wheel from the shaft. You can get something to hold the turbine wheel like visegrips but it has a s-type nut on the rear that requires a special socket. The early Powerstrokes had an 18-mm nut on the back that you can hold.

Step 5: Now you can remove the 4 bolts that hold the compressor back plate on. These are also 8mm 12-pt. Below is a pic of the thrust bearing assembly. This rides on a thin coat of oil and supports the mainshaft.


Here's a pic of the back side of the compressor back plate. Notice the cross shaped gasket.

Step 6: Now it's time to remove the 4 bolts that hold the center housing to the turbine housing. Here is where we found a contributing factor to the turbo seal failure. There are 4 bolts that need to be soaked in PB to ensure they dont break off. What we found was 1 bolt missing, 1 bolt loose, and 2 bolts tight. This allowed for much more movement than should have been.You can see the bolt missing in this pic.

Here you can see the bolt that is half backed out.

Step 7: Remove the 4 bolt and pry the center housing out of the turbine housing. I make sure to mark all housings so I will now how they go together.

Step 8: Tap the compressor end of the shaft with a rubber hammer to knock the main shaft out.


Make sure to note how the journal bearing and spacer comes out of the compressor side.

Step 9: Remove the seal and journal bearing from the shaft. Clean the groove with a wire brush and install new seal and journal bearing.

This is the old seal and bearing.

Step 10: Install the shaft into the center housing. Make sure to clean all components and oil center of housing and shaft. Wiggle shaft as you push it into the housing. You will feel a "click" as the seal mates into the housing. Then put the spacer and bearing in the compressor side. Now install the center housing in the turbine housing. Hopefully you got 4 new bolts in the kit. Put loctite on the four bolts and tighten them.

Step 11: Install the new seal on the thrust bearing assembly and install assembly into compressor back plate with new cross seal. The bearing will only fit in one way. Then install the back plate onto the center housing. Install the 4 bolts and torque to 12 ft-lbs.

Step 12: Install the compressor wheel onto the shaft. For this I held the turbine wheel with visegrips since you only have to torque it to 10 ft-lbs. because the rotation of the turbo will tighten it down further.


Step 13: Now you can install the compressor housing and torque bolts to 12 ft-lbs. Make sure O-ring is still in place and in good condition to provide good seal and no leaks.

Step 14: Install EBV housing and enjoy!!!!

 

Caution: MAKE SURE TO FEEL OF TURBO AFTER COMPLETION TO MAKE SURE THERE IS NOT EXCESSIVE PLAY IN SHAFT. ALSO OIL TURBO BEFORE INSTALLATION AND AFTER CRANKING ALLOW TO IDLE FOR 2 MINS BEFORE ACCELERATING. THIS IS JUST A STEP-BY-STEP OF HOW I DID IT AND I'M NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY SCREWED-UP TURBOS THAT ARE CAUSED BY READING THIS!!

 

Thanks a lot everybody!

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11/19/2010 5:50:59 PM #

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Pingback from thedieselstop.com

Rebuilding a 7.3 turbo - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

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11/21/2010 10:37:43 PM #

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Pingback from ford-trucks.com

Looking for turbo rebuild write up and tips - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

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